Monday, August 16, 2010

ERITREA 1998-2000




Asmara is a beautiful city. It is neat and clean. There are modern buildings, sleek cars on the roads and the people are well dressed. There are no beggars on the streets, which was surprising since I had read that Eritrea is one of the poorest countries in Africa. Begging is discouraged. Crime is rare, since punishment is severe. The country has a small population of about 3 million and so poverty is less visible. The people eat well. While we buy 1kg of mutton, some locals buy a goat.There are a few locals who eat raw meat. The Catholic Cathedral built by the Italians is the most beautiful building in Asmara. Independence Day is celebrated on a large scale. Eritrea was a province of Ethiopia before independence. I was posted at Segeneity and visited Asmara every weekend. Also visited Dekemhare, Adi-Keyh, Keren, Mendefera, Senafe and Massawa during the holidays.




























































Segeneity is a small town with a pleasant climate. It is cool throughout the year. Visited the ruins of the three forts on the hill tops. I was told to be careful about mines and so walked along the worn path. Locals sell vegetables and livestock in the market on Saturdays. Bars are common and beer is popular. Attended the wedding of elementary teachers Hadish Tesfay and Lula (picture). A man was playing the harp and there was singing and dancing at night. We had the local alcoholic drink called suva.






















































Also attended the wedding of Osman, who left his wife and child to get married again. At the ceremony, I saw two groups of people dancing towards each other with swords in their hands. They must be the relatives of the bride and groom. Much later, I learn some people saw him leave on a bus with a goat to celebrate being a father again but on reaching his wife, she dies leaving him with a child.
A student kills himself while playing with his father’s rifle. Attended his funeral, for which most of the town turns up. His body was draped with the national flag.Some women were dancing while wailing, it was a strange sight. During the ceremony, the orthodox priest tells the relatives not to cry since they are Christians and believe he is with the savior.


Senafe is a town near the Ethiopian border. A few days before my visit, Ethiopian jets flew across the border and bombed some places in Eritrea. The border conflict was intensifying. It was strange that some times, we come to know about a bombing only when we are told about it, much later. These are not atom bombs. When we hear a sound we look around and if we see smoke rising, we know a bomb has exploded there. So, to get hurt a bomb must drop near you. There are huge rock formations in Senafe and it is a spectacular sight.





























Massawa is a port city near the Red Sea. There is a resort frequented by tourists. The city has a laid back atmosphere. I spent two days there going to the beach and visiting the restaurants.




























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